Biwako Hanakaido Ryokan - びわ湖花街道
So right now in Japan it is Valentines day, I had considered writing a blog about Valentines culture over here where women give chocolates to men, both romantic partners and other co-workers etc., which is then reciprocated on White day by men to women in March. But considering I saw about ten articles doing exactly that on my facebook alone I'll do something a little different!
Since work for both me and my partner has kind of sucked lately we decided to do something a little special and have a weekend away in Shiga staying at a Ryokan near the lake. A ryokan is quite different than a standard hotel, they are traditional inn which vary in size, from small family run places to larger establishments like the one we went to. They often built upon natural hot springs and are renowned for their high quality of customer service, tatami rooms and beautiful selections of food.
The one we chose was called Biwako Hanakaido and is situated alongside Biwa Lake in Shiga, it takes just under 2 hours to drive there from Osaka.
A warm welcome:
Despite it raining outside we were greeted by staff outside who offered to carry our bags and showed us inside to a very cozy reception area which was set alongside a cafe. There was really warm yellow ambient lighting and lots of beautiful detailed screens. My partner commented that it had a very 'retro' feel. We were served some delicious warming Yuzu tea while we filled out some basic paperwork. I noticed that many of the signs also had English and overheard some staff speaking fantastic English to other guests so I imagine it would be easy to enjoy for those who don't speak Japanese too.
The staff offered us a choice of Yukata colours before guiding us to our ruins, explaining the various facilities en route. This particular ryokan has 2 public hot springs, 1 private rental hot spring, a mahjong room, several restaurants, a cafe, business area and even a set of karaoke room. Some of these cost extra however.
Traditional, yet simple rooms:
The rooms were fairly standard as far as Ryokan's go. Large tatami based rooms with a low seated tables and chairs. Tatami's are INCREDIBLY comfy to just sprawl out on despite their initial appearance. The usual amenities were available such as a TV, coffee, tea etc.
Compared to other inns that I have been too there wasn't really anything that stood out or seemed special though. It was comfy for sure, but beyond that it could have been located at any inn, nothing unique about it.
There was a really nice view of Biwa lake despite the gloomy day although access to the balcony was limited to some side doors situated behind our screen doors. It would have been better if the window was part of a large sliding door, there wasn't really any incentive to go outside since the balcony was small and we could enjoy the view from inside the comfort of our room.
A wooden bath was located through the washing and shower room in a separate section, other inns have had their baths as part of the balcony whereas this was more closed off. It was suprisingly comfortable at night and offered great views of the lake and building lights at night. These room baths use a standard water supply and not the hot spring water.
One big perk of staying at Ryokan is that you get to wear some high quality and ultra comfortable yukata! Make sure to wrap yourself with the right side first, followed by the left on top. If you do the opposite, you are wrapping yourself the same as they wrap the dead! To my surprise they actually had big sizes suitable for foreigners, I am 186cm so usually most yukata come up embarrassingly short on my legs but their LL size was perfect.
Recharge with the onsite hot spring facilities:
As part of your overnight fee you get free access to the public hot springs. They are divided into two sections, one for men and one for women that alternate on each day. So you can go to one side after you check in, then before or after breakfast you can experience the other side before you check out.
Each side contains one bigger hot spring alongside the washing area, one outside hot spring and one sauna.
I went to this hot spring on our second day after we woke up. It took me just three minutes from waking up, to entering the bathing area. Getting to experience a hot spring after waking up is AMAZING, it totally revitalises you and gears you up for the day. This one picture above was pretty big and since it was early I had the luxury of having it to myself. Not too hot compared to some others I have been to.
To experience this onsen you go through a door leading to the outside area, you briefly exit the overhead cover before plunging into the warm pool. There is something liberating about feeling the cool rain as you stride across naked at 9am! I love the feel of this pool, I think the pouring rain added to the relaxing experience, it was surrounded by bamboo trees too.
I went to this hot spring on the first night and it was MUCH steamier than the picture shows here. It was also really busy in the evening. This was much hotter than the one above, my body was pouring sweat long after I had left the pool!
I unfortunately couldn't experience this outdoor pool as it was also commandeered by groups of older guys who were visiting together, it only fits about six people and I didn't fancy squeezing in any closer than I needed to be.
Of course you are required to be naked when visiting these, if you have a problem with that then my only advice is: deal with it. You are missing out if you don't.
The hot spring and changing areas also give you a chance to experience a variety of cleaning products that can be bought from the souvenir store.
Of course you are required to be naked when visiting these, if you have a problem with that then my only advice is: deal with it. You are missing out if you don't.
The hot spring and changing areas also give you a chance to experience a variety of cleaning products that can be bought from the souvenir store.
Well balanced yet filling food:
When you make your initial booking you get to choose from a set food course ranging from a variety of prices. We went for the beef option. Ryokan meals always come with a large number of courses containing sets of small but carefully selected dishes that compliment each other. Unlike regular hotels however there is no 'western version', these are very much traditionally Japanese, with the tastes to match. So if you are a picky eater or not keen on seafood or local vegetables you might find yourself feeling hungry after!
This inn's course was again pretty standard fare, very filling and satisfying but it didn't blow our minds.
Pea based tofu, mackerel sushi, a selection of vegetables and breaded shrimp served with plum wine.
Fresh sashimi, served with two different dips.
Crab claw, vegetables and cod that had been cooked using the 'shio koji' method - soaking the fish in the remnant rice malt that is used to make alcoholic sake. It gave the fish a real distinct taste, would recommend!
Perhaps the most fun dish of the night was a selection of vegetables and beef that we grilled ourselves on a heated crystal plate. Very fancy and delicious!
Lotus root, scallops, mackerel served with a lime jelly and vegetables.
Duck dumpling, with burdock root, carrot and an amazing sauce.
Somewhat plain finish to the course with some special type of bean rice, miso soup with ricecake and some delicious pickles.
Fruit and jelly bowl!
Green tea and chocolate dessert. Not to everyone's taste due to the chewy texture.
Drinks are always a bit pricey at places like these with beer starting at 800yen for a big bottle, although these places specialize in sake, shochu and umeshu so be sure to give them a try if you can!
Drinks are always a bit pricey at places like these with beer starting at 800yen for a big bottle, although these places specialize in sake, shochu and umeshu so be sure to give them a try if you can!
When we returned from dinner we discovered that the staff had prepared the futons to sleep for the night! Some modern Ryokan have regular western style beds but many still prefer to offer futons for sleeping due to their ability to be conveniently packed away when not in use. They are really comfy and incredibly warm but take some time to get used to. It took me a long time to drift off because I kept getting too hot and I'm a little too tall for them!
A delicate and very Japanese style breakfast:
After waking up and enjoying the hot springs and having some relax time it was time to head down for breakfast!
Again, a wide spread of traditional dishes was offered alongside fresh rice, fresh pickled plums and miso soup that are not pictured here. The rice and miso soup can be refilled as you please, there were also raw eggs available if you wanted to make tamagokakegohan (egg on rice - tastes amazing).
Again, a wide spread of traditional dishes was offered alongside fresh rice, fresh pickled plums and miso soup that are not pictured here. The rice and miso soup can be refilled as you please, there were also raw eggs available if you wanted to make tamagokakegohan (egg on rice - tastes amazing).
Doesn't look very appetizing but tasted way better than anticipated! The entire fish is edible.
The weather eventually brightened up and shortly after I took this photo the sun began shining through!
Overall our experience was a good one, coming just short of about 30,000yen each. More expensive than a standard hotel but the experience, setting, hot springs and selection of food make it worth it. If you are in the Shiga/Biwa lake area I would recommend it. However I wouldn't advise making the journey to visit this Ryokan specifically as I have experience better ones elsewhere in other prefectures! Perhaps try it for yourself to see if you disagree!
Contact details for the Ryokan can be found below!
Thanks for reading!
http://www.hanakaido.co.jp/hotspring/
おごと温泉 びわ湖花街道 〒520-0101 滋賀県 大津市雄琴1丁目1-3 フリーダイヤル：0120-051-041
TEL：077-578-1075 / FAX：077-578-1011
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